From David Sax’s 2009 book “Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen” to the 2014 documentary “Deli Man,” the death knell was sounded for the American Jewish deli. Changes in the way people eat — less meat, more plant-based diets — and the assimilation of Jewish neighborhoods contributed to fewer classic Jewish delis, the kosher-style spots with piled-high sandwiches. (Traditionally a kosher deli would be a separate shop from an appetizing store, which would sell cheeses, dairy products and smoked fish. Kosher-style spots sell everything under one roof.)

Chopped liver made way on the menu for avocado toast. Except, someone forgot to tell all that to restaurateurs in Chicago. Read Article